July 5, 2009 by Bruce Gregg.

Posted on BladeForums.com by Doug Ritter 

AKTI STATEMENT -
AKTI Opposes U.S. Customs’ attempt to classify assisted-opening knives and all one-hand opening knives as switchblades.

Customs’ proposal will make criminals of 35.6 million Americans.  The definition of a switchblade or automatic knife has been clear and explicit in federal law since 1958. There have been several state court cases in California, Texas, Illiinois and Michigan on the issue of assisted-opening knives.  Every judge in every case has ruled they are not switchblades because they do not possess an activating button on the handle.

In fact, AKTI’ s bill on the Texas governor’s desk now clarified their statute, reaffirming the 50-year old federal definition, and clearly distinguishing one-hand openers and assisted-openers from knives classified as switchblades or automatics.

Be warned,  AKTI fears that all folding knives will be at risk.  U.S. Customs’ proposal indicates it is directed at only the importers of assisted-opening knives. However, the language used in their revocation document is so broad and uses virtually every term ever applied to any knife that opens with one hand. We fear that they are attempting to bypass the will of Congress and that once they succeed in getting assisted-openers defined as switchblades, they could move against all folding knives. These include multi-tools, traditional pocket knives, one-hand openers, and assisted-openers.

If you want to view a video of what AKTI fears about this situation and about your being branded a criminal if you carry a folding knife, go to . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5KINtCajwI

AKTI’s Knife User Data ( http://akti.org/PDFS/AKTI-KnifeUserData.pdf ) documents that at least 35.6 million folding knife users would become de facto criminals if Customs has their way. AKTI’s Talking Points ( http://akti.org/PDFS/AKTI-CustomsTalkingPoints.pdf ) tells you in simple language what Customs is really trying to do. Share these documents with other knife owners and your elected representatives at the federal and state level.  . When you are write letters or emails on this issue, you can use this data.

AKTI learned, at 5:00 p.m. Eastern time on June 10, 2009, that U.S. Customs has denied the AKTI request for an extension of the comment period.

We must now ask our national lawmakers to help us. That should be the first letter you write.
You can find out who your lawmakers are and their email addresses by going to .

Find your congressional officials
http://www.congress.org/congressorg/home/

Review our communication suggestions  
http://akti.org/legislation/communicate.html

This is the absolute # 1 action step you must take TODAY.
Please use one of the following letters to email your lawmakers (You can also follow up with a copy sent via regular mail or fax to help reinforce your request. If you know the lawmaker, please call them. Even if you don’t know them, an assistant will make a note of your concern and convey it to the lawmaker.)

Be sure to personalize your letters
Individual Letter to Legislators as Word Document (.doc)
http://akti.org/PDFS/AKTI-LegislatorIndividualLetter.doc

Individual Letter to Legislators as Rich Text File (.rtf)
http://akti.org/PDFS/AKTI-LegislatorIndividualLetter.rtf

Company Letter to Legislators as Word Document (.doc)
http://akti.org/PDFS/AKTI-LegislatorCompanyLetter.doc

Company Letter to Legislators as Rich Text file (.rtf)
http://akti.org/PDFS/AKTI-LegislatorCompanyLetter.rtf

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February 17, 2008 by Bruce Gregg.

By Scott King - www.elephanttoenails.com

There are a few stories on the background of this pattern, but the consensus is that this odd looking knife was produced as a working man’s knife, as well as a tool for the hunter/camper.

Mr. Harvey Platts writes in The Knife Makers Who Went West, a fascinating historic catalog of his family and the cutlery business, that the massive swell-center produced by his family’s firm was a “rope knife.”

Many knowledgeable dealers and collectors conclude this knife was a knife made for cutting rope. In his wonderful article on Elephant Toenails in The Best of Knife World Volume III, Mr. Joe Seale remembers as a young boy in 1933, this knife being used in the old mercantile stores to cut rope. He writes “There were all kinds of rope sold in this store, the old P. N. Stockton General Mercantile since 1901, specifically huge spools of well rope, calf rope, rope for working livestock, rope for pulling heavy loads.” He remembers the clerk measuring out the rope, then reaching for up for an Elephant Toenail to cut it in the desired length for the customer. One of the stories he recounts is that this knife was used on the early seagoing vessels to work with and repair the big thick hawsers (tow ropes).

An early Napanoch catalog illustrated this knife as a “Napanoch Axe (for the Vest Pocket)” and stated, “The nearest thing to an axe, still can be conveniently carried in the top vest pocket and you would hardly be conscious of its being there. Best thing for Hunters, Campers, Sportsmen, and Linesmen hanging Trolley, Telegraph and Telephone wires.”

Mr. Richard White, in an article in Knives 2002, states that the Sunfish was used in the past as a tool knife by surveyors to cut stakes. He writes, “…because of the massive size and thick blades and backspring, it could be placed on the end of a piece of wood, and stuck with a mallet in order to split off a wooden stake.”

In the Oct 18th 1906 edition of The Youth’s Companion the Jumbo Pocket Knife is shown in an advertisement illustrating the Napanoch Knife Company, Napanoch, NY (1900- 1919) toenail. The caption reads, “Designed especially for that large class who require a knife for heavy work, such as leather or rope cutting, or other similar material requiring great strength.”

In a 1903 Gold Cross Coffee Company Catalog, pocket knives were used as incentives for new clients. In it a toenail was illustrated as “Old Honesty” (a label taken from a Case Brothers Catalog produced around the same time) and the description read “heavy blades and frame, just the thing for lumbermen, teamsters and oilmen. It is an axe, board axe and Jack-knife combined. ”

Marbles Safety Axe (later to be renamed Marbles Arms Co.) of Gladstone, MI in its Hints to Hunters written in 1905 encouraged its readers “…a good hunting knife, and a small pocket or belt axe are about as much importance as any other part of the outfit.”

The elephant toenail was the largest pocket knife offered by Marbles, unless you want to count its Folding Safety Hunter. The toenail was classified as a camping tool and was made under contract by Case Brothers of Little Valley, New York. In its 1905 Marble’s Specialties for Sportsmen catalog, it stated, “the (elephant toenails) have been selected with a view of fully meeting the requirements of our sports-men friends in the woods or in town.” As a side note, the 8250 pictured in this catalog has no tang stamp, but does have the TESTED XX stamped out on the master blade. In both the 1906 & 1907 Marbles catalogs, the knife is shown bearing the M.S.A. CO (over) Gladstone (over) Michigan USA stamps without the TESTED XX stamp/etch on the master blade. Also, understand, just because a catalog depicted a knife in a certain matter, doesn’t mean it was actually produced that way, i.e. without a tang stamp as in the 1905 catalog.

A 1906 catalog of The French Manufacture of Weapons and Cycles of Saint-Etienne contained an ad promoting the toenail. The knife was identified as “The Bulldog” and is characterized as the knife “to satisfy the desires of the sportsmen, motorists, and hunters.”

Again, the reference to the W R Case catalog in which the firm labels the pattern as being “used on sailing vessels”, however, in examining the old sailors knives a clear pattern emerges, which is absent on the Toenail. The old sailor’s knives commonly have a bail. It would seem that being able to free ones hands to hold on in rough water would be important and without a bail, which allows for the knife holder to let it fall to his side, the holder would be forced to try to hold on for dear life while maintaining a firm grip on his valuable “tool” knife. The bail also allows the seaman not to worry about the knife falling overboard. In fact I have only seen one old toenail with a bail. It is a Case Bros. Little Valley with the arc stamping produced around 1900 to 1912.

While Case represented it to be “used on sailing vessels,” I believe its use was more as a general work knife and camping & hunting tool/axe. It also was clearly used for cutting rope; however, in a more stationary place like on a farm, factory floor, a hardware or general mercantile store, or at the dock, rather than on a sailing vessel at sea.

Author: Scott King - www.elephanttoenails.com

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February 16, 2008 by Bruce Gregg.

From self-defense to work-a-day tool-box tasks, these multi-purpose tactical blades give the term survival tool” a whole new meaning. Back in the mid-’70s, the Buck 110 folder was considered a rather radical accessory. “Why the hell do you need that on your belt?” was the typical reaction of grizzled police vets upon seeing the innovative combat folder on the belt of younger officers. They would then pull a Stockman, Canoe or more often than not, a Barlow or electrician’s utility knife from a pocket. Usually the knife was well worn and the blade was stained and showed many visits to a pocket stone. But the concept of the tactical folding knife was here to stay, and design improvements came quickly, When Sal Glesser put a hole in the blade of a knife and Spyderco was born, things changed seriously. Until then, Buck, Puma, Victorinox, Wenger and a small handful of others reigned supreme in the “working” knife department. The one-handed opening feature of the original Spyderco “Clip-It” was astonishingly simple. Prior attempts to accomplish this feature most often consisted of sheaths that kept the blade open slightly and “automatically” opened the knife when it was drawn. They were mostly pretty scary to use and there were lots of bad cuts among cops as they learned to use them. They were finally labeled “Verbotten” for duty use. Spyderco’s groundbreaking design made us realize there was a different way to think about the concept of a truly one-handed knife.

The Tactics Of The Knife
A tactical knife is one that can be put to use quickly and will perform mightily in its intended role of “separating” one thing from another. Usually, this feat is accomplished with one hand.We’re not going to spend too much time on the specifics of too many of the breed, but rather concentrate on the “whys” and “what fors” of the family. It would take a book to cover what’s out there, even if we just stuck to “what’s new.” Suffice to say that if you pay your money (between $50 to $250 or more), you can pretty much get something that will keep your kiester out of hot water. Also, they’re all so damn sharp these days you 11 probably cut yourself while you’re fiddling with it. Be advised. In addition to the one-handed opening innovation, Spyderco did something else that rocked the boat — Glesser put a pocket clip on that same funny knife with the hole in the blade. Amazingly, the force shifted significantly and everyone in the blade industry was left in the dust. Suddenly you could lay your hand on your knife quickly and easily, open it and put it to work just as quickly, all with one hand. Sounds pretty “tactical” to us. All those Buck 110 folders quickly became antiques.

Fixing The Problem
Is a fixed blade knife a “tactical knife”? We’d say yes. Perhaps one of the original tactical knives is the Marine KaBar knife. Are bayonets tactical knives? Perhaps not, but then a Ka-Bar was made for one thing — to cut, and cut it did. A generation of Americans relied on their Ka-Bars to save their collective bacon, and the spirit of that knife has generated a slew of new ideas. Look at any “tactical fighter” today and you can see some history behind it. Lots of times that history might be a Ka-Bar. But the only problem is, in today’s world, it’s not socially acceptable to carry 7″ or 8″ of fixed blade on your hip unless you want people to stare and cops to meet you at all hours of the day and night. We must broadly interpret the idea behind the term “tactical knives,” because what might be “tactical” for a schoolteacher might not be up to the job for a Navy SEAL or a beat cop in the “bad” part of town. The knife industry is currently in the midst of a renaissance. There was only a small handful of quality factory makers to pick and choose from 30 years ago, but today, well, hold on to your wallet. Chances are pretty good if you can think it up, someone is making it and probably in several models, to boot! From O1 or D2 tool steel, bone, antler, ivory, wood and micarta we’ve progressed all too quickly to a rash of numbers that are difficult to comprehend. “CPM440V, 410, G-10, 6060T6, Titanium and 440C” all describe fairly common knife components. Tactical usually means high-tech, which means “highly technical,” and for once the term is probably right. Steels, handle materials, blade materials and methods of heat treating, manufacturing and fitting are so far from the technology of only 10 years ago that to say we have a new generation of knives is to understate the obvious by several levels.

Tough Enough
Today’s knives, both folders and fixed blades, are the most rugged, bulletproof, ergonomically-designed tools that have ever been manufactured. For sheer value, money plunked down on a quality folder or fixed blade tactical knife from the likes of SOG, Kershaw, Al Mar, Gerber, Buck, Emerson, Spyderco, GT, Cold Steel, Camillus, Columbia River Knife and Tool, Microtech, Mission Knives, Meyerco, Randall, Benchmade or Timberline (to name just a few) will make you a happy person and the envy of all who see that cool tool riding in your pocket or on your hip. Not to mention it just might actually become indispensable in your daily life. Recently, Gus Grissom’s Mercury space capsule, “Liberty Bell 7,” was raised from the deep after a 40-year sleep 15,000 feet down on the ocean floor. Inside it they found his Randall knife (the No. 17 Astro). After being cleaned up it was found to still be serviceable. An astronaut might have used his Randall knife to pry his way out of his capsule, survive on a desert island or open his space rations — all of which sounds pretty tactical. Perhaps this particular Randall No. 17 (one of two made) might rank as one of the most famous “tactical knives.” The moral of the story is that it’s best to not get caught up in the term “tactical,” but focus on the needs involved. If a 50-year-old Marbles Game Getter is your idea of the perfect knife, then it’s pretty tactical for you. If your tastes run a bit more “new millennium,” check out the newest offerings available over the counter. You’re sure to find more performance than you could ever need. Five Tips For Picking The Right Tactical Knife With the trainload of choices out there it can be tough to choose just the right knife for your needs. In order to manage the chore, start by asking yourself. “What is the job at hand?” If you are honest with yourself, you’ll often find you need much less knife than you might imagine.

The Working Knife
Looking for an every day utility, “working” folder to clip to your pocket, ride at your waist or drop into a purse? Perhaps something to open boxes at work, trim that recalcitrant plant by your front door or cut that old fan belt off the ‘63 Chevy. What’s your price range? For $40 to $50, peace of mind is available in the form of a Spyderco Delica. The stainless blade and synthetic handle make this knife virtually impervious to the elements. If you opt for the serrated blade, you could cut one of the Queen Mary’s mooring lines if you had to — all the while feeling quite tactical.

Rough And Tumble
Got more money to spend and maybe your line of work runs more toward the rough and tumble? Plunk down $50 to $150 and you’ll find yourself with a Kershaw Blizzard, Black Out or Whirlwind, all with Ken Onion’s “Speed Safe” opening feature. Once again, with high-tech steels and handle materials like Polyamide, these knives are tough as nails, perfect for use as hard-cutting tools. Just as tough, or maybe even more so, might be a Cold Steel, Benchmade or Emerson tactical folder. Cutting-edge designs, serrated edges, curves and non-slip handles have created a family of folders suited to be at your side as you patrol the streets, open a parachute, dive to 120 feet or just open your mail.

Let There Be Light
Is lightweight your fancy? Al Mar’s “Ultralights” define the breed. Weighing around 1 to 2 ozs., these slender, pocket-friendly folders have pocket clips, easy one-handed opening and are classically styled. Looking almost like fine jewelry, their good looks hide their tough demeanor.

COPYRIGHT 2001 Publishers’ Development Corporation
COPYRIGHT 2000 Gale Group

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February 13, 2008 by Bruce Gregg.

The widely accepted guidelines are those established by the National Knife Collectors Association and are described below:

Mint - A knife that is absolutely original as it came from the manufacturer. Never used, carried, sharpened, nor heavily cleaned. An unblemished knife.
Near Mint - A new-condition knife that may show very slight signs of carry or shop wear. Blades are not worn and snap perfectly. Handles show no cracks. Most of original finish is obvious.
Excellent - A knife that shows no more than 10 percent blade wear. Handles are sound with no cracks. Blades snap well. Some discoloration of blades or handles is acceptable. May have been heavily cleaned.
Very Good - A knife with up to 25 percent blade wear, slight cracks in handles. No blades nor other parts replaced or repaired. Stamping clearly visible to the naked eye.
Fair - A knife with up to 50 percent blade wear, cracks, or chips in handles. Blades “lazy” (lacking snap) and may have been repaired. Stamping faint but readable with magnifying glass.
Poor - Blades very worn or may have been replaced with ones of same type. Handles bad or missing. Reading of stamping nearly impossible. A knife valued for its parts.

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February 9, 2008 by Bruce Gregg.

Author: Lyle Brunckhort

I get asked this kind of question a lot lately and I also hear things like, Jeez Damascus is a lost art, isn’t it? Or Damascus is sharper than ordinary steel and on and on. Well these are valid questions and can not be answered in a few words like yup sure is or nope it aint.

The problem of a short answer is also due to, what is Damascus steel? Many folks have heard the term Damascus, have heard of Japanese swords and have been subject to some misleading information along the way. I sometimes hear people say things like; Samurai Japanese swords are folded a million times and can cut machinegun barrels. Or how about the story of the blade that cut the anvil in half that made it. Or the Japanese sword that is so sharp that it will cut a leaf in half upon contacting the sword edge as it floats down the creek. And then there is the old falling silk scarf story. Hey Kevin Costner showed us that one in a movie, right.

In a way, I hate to lift the veils of lore and let the bright rays of enlightenment shine in, but some of us are taking these things a little too serious, aren’t we? And yet we can’t help but wonder at times if just maybe there may be a very small glimmer of truth somewhere in one or more of these tails.

In June of 2002 I held a Damascus symposium here at the shop and one of the featured speakers Dr. Sung Beck is a Grandmaster Swordsman. He delighted us with his exquisite collection of Chinese and Japanese swords and also with his finely tuned wit and story telling abilities.

His humorous stories had a point though, pun not intended, and gave us just a little insight as to what it was and is all about. His stories told us how to straighten a bent Japanese sword by banging it over a log or using a monkey wrench and how to pick out a good one for battle; they were truly enlightening and gave us all something to think about. Dr. Beck made many comments from his observations from his past training of cutting numerous things for practice with Chinese and Japanese swords over the years and some of them made perfect sense and others I will have to think about for a spell.

OK, before we get rolling let’s start with just a smattering of background to pave the way. Damascus is a place in Syria and is where westerners first observed the famed swords of the Far East. Actually they were made in India from a steel called wootz and only discovered in the city of Damascus. Wootz steel is melted in small sealed clay crucibles from steel scraps and carbon bearing materials and after solidifying, were then forged at a very low heat into sword blades. Sword remnants tested for content were often found to contain a fair amount of sulfur and phosphorous. It is believed that this made the cast ingots red short, difficult to forge and is very likely the governing secret to the success of Damascus blades. The higher heats that the European smiths were accustomed to, would have crumbled the steel and it also would not have produced the kind of steel that made them famous. Although the task of forging at such a low and narrow band of temperature was difficult, the first side-affect or benefit was tougher and springier steel with superior edge holding properties. The second benefit was the pattern formed by the ghosting of the dendrites which were formed during the slow initial cooling of the ingot. It was discovered recently by Al Pendray and Dr. John Verhoeven that the trace amounts of vanadium were responsible for forming the Damascus patterns because they aligned along the grain boundaries of the dendrites and due to forging at a reduced heat, retained the image throughout the forging process. Although it was the dendrite pattern that gave rise to the Damascening, they soon learned also how to enhance the patterns mechanically.

During this same time frame the Japanese were discovering the methods of producing fine steel blades from iron ore panned from the rivers. This panned ore was smelted in a wood coke furnace and the crude metal was broken up into pieces, forged flat and stacked into billets. These stacks were forge welded together and forged to length. Then it was folded first length wise and after welding and forging again folded sideways and welded again. This process was repeated from 8 to 16 times in order to refine the impurities out of the steel and to remove excess carbon. If you will get out your calculator, you will find that 16 folds will give you 65,536 layers of steel if you start with one single layer, if you started with an 8 layer stack, 17 folds will give you 1,048,576 layers. How many layers would you get if you folded the steel one million times? Now this is assuming that you would have the time or, due to material loss from scaling, any thing left to work with.

Now when the sword is forged out of this steel, all of the layers will be lined up and going in the same direction. Any flexing of the blade sideways will be stretching half of these layers and compressing the other half. For sure, this would be as strong and resilient as a modern day forged blade of solid non layered steel. In fact I think that it can be argued that the layered steel would be more resilient because any stress cracking may be stopped as it reaches the next layer. Flexing the sword blade up or down would be the same as any other homogenous blade as each layer is undergoing the same stresses.

Modern day Damascus or Pattern welded steel is manipulated in various ways to produce some very striking looking patterns. Many of these layers will be aligned in such an order as to produce a sound blade, but some of the layers will be running contrary to that which will produce a good blade. In other words some layers will weaken a blade because of an adverse alignment of weld lines. In such a blade, if you flex the blade sideways, the layers do not just stretch or compress, they could pull apart at the welds. A multi bar composite blade or a sanmai blade will have built in factors favorable to the strength of the blade if done in the right way.

A many layered blade will likely have weld lines running across the edge and this will give the edge a micro serration edge. This edge will feel sharper than a homogenous blade and will out cut a conventional blade using a slicing motion. By folding the steel billet like a paper airplane, according to Dr. Beck, the Japanese could improve the swords cutting abilities on the tip’s first couple of inches. This is the working part, the rest of the blade is there to put the first two inches into proper reach. He also suggested that the sword could be made to cut either on a forward slice or on a rearward slice depending on the way the folds were made.

When you boil it all down, cutting is a function of blade geometry, hardness, toughness, sharpness, micro edge serration and technique. Yes Damascus can be stronger, no it sometimes isn’t. Yes Damascus does feel sharper and for many cutting tasks will out perform a conventional blade.

It is interesting to note that Damascus swords and the Samurai swords had a parallel history a world apart from each other and both had an impact on the rest of the world. It is also interesting that both art forms were very nearly lost, indeed, one had to be reinvented. The modern day Damascus or (pattern welded blade) is a blend of both ancient arts and has taken on a life of its own. According to Dr. Verhoeven, pattern welding predates both of these technologies. Check out the Historical Background of Damascus steel by Dr. John Verhoeven Today’s patterns have transcended those of ancient times, but are they as battle worthy? I believe that many modern day smiths have the capability of producing a blade just as battle worthy as their ancient counterparts and better. And yes there likely are a some blades that although very beautiful will not stand up to battle conditions.

If art is truly, “form follows function”, then where does that leave some of today’s stunning looking blades? I would suggest that the really true art form is in both beauty and functionality.

Author: Lyle Brunckhorst

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February 9, 2008 by Bruce Gregg.

It is important that your knives are cared for correctly so that you can use them at their optimum performance each time and your investment will give you many years of service.

HANDLE: Natural woods benefit from an occasional rubbing with danish oil. Wipe off excess.

SHARPENING: All knives require sharpening after prolonged use. It is recommended that your blade be kept well honed at all times, a sharp knife is safer to use than a dull one.

SHEATH: Clean with leather soap. Do not use any oils on the leather, as this will soften the molded shape of the sheath.

STAINLESS STEELS: Most stainless steels don’t need much care. Just wash and keep dry.

STEEL: All carbine and tool steel blades, and most damascus, will stain when cutting meat or other organic materials. This staining is due to the acid content and will not cause damage to your blade. Stains can be removed by polishing. If any rust appears, remove with a fine abrasive paper, or fine steel wool. With each use of your knife, wash clean and dry completely and lubricate.

STORAGE: If you will not be using your knife for a period of time, remove it from the sheath. Leather contains acid that could stain your blade or excellerate rusting. Store in a display case or wrapped in a soft cloth.

USE: Custom knives are designed for sportsmen and collectors. The edge is designed for cutting, not hacking wood or prying bone. Throwing a knife, that was not designed for this purpose, may also cause damage. Speciality knives can be designed for this purpose.

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September 20, 2007 by Bruce Gregg.

For a person like me who is from the West, keeping an old time small knife in the pocket is not a fashion but one of the most essential things to have when going out.  It is just not possible to tell when the handy little thing might just have a great use for you.  You may face a situation when you may need to cut things or peel or may need to sharpen a pencil suddenly and unexpectedly.  Youu never know!  The trend of keeping a blade clipped in the pocket is not new and has been in existence for many, many years.  Even during the age of my grandfather, people also used to keep the Old-Timer knife in their pockets, treating it as a part of life.

To be truthful, I am a knife enthusiast and for this I give the total responsibility to my father who had encouraged me in collecting the cutleries.  We can all appreciate good knives, especially the wondrously looking old-fashioned pocketknives.  The prevailing fashion has changed a lot with a wide assortment of 440C steel knives with varied designs.  From ATS 34 and 154 CM we skipped off to VG 10 and D2 and at last we have come to an era of steel.  The existing types of knives are usually made from S30 V.  The S30 V specification of steel is one of the best for making knives.  Had there been such materials in the past, things would have doubtlessly been different.  Although, the market has come up with a mind blowing assortment of the knives, I personally prefer the heavy duty utility knives that are committed unswervingly to do any kind of job.

How to Find a Good Knife

If you are among those people who are really searching for an old time knife to be kept in the pocket wherever you go, then you may be glad to know that it is quite easy to get such a thing now a days.  As a matter of fact, you do not have to search for such a pocketknife very far.  You can just search for it on the web.

One of the most significant things that should be kept in mind is that the online markets are offering an awesome collection of knives with modern designs and more attractive looks.  The contemporary folding blades of the modern age are so eye pleasing, efficient and sturdy that it can attract just about any person.  From the small trendy pocket sets to large knives, you can go online to have a huge set of options to choose from.

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July 29, 2007 by Bruce Gregg.

We will strive to post informative info about our website and articles about personal safety and self defense (and just about anything else that should come to mind)!

Check back whenever you get a chance.

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